2 replies to this topic

[Chzyrider]

Continuing from intro-thread...

With the dual-level double-ended adjustable rotor design on the EEC-II ignition system on a 1979 Lincoln Versailles with 302/auto-trans, I can set the distributor down on either of two gear-teeth and still line up the rotor to the alignment slot on the distributor housing by rotating it to one side or the other.

I have the engine at TDC compression stroke (indicated by compression gauge) and confirming my manually checking for TDC with a pencil in the spark plug hole, yet it seems to be aligning inbetween two teeth. I have the rotor facing the right direction as it has an alignment slot on one end to correlate with the alignment slot in the distributor housing.

My books do not indicate anything further, assuming it's going down on the correct tooth to align the rotor, but the rotor is moved fully over to one side or the other direction within the screw slots allowing the rotation to align on either tooth.

I can either place the distributor down on one tooth and rotate the rotor advanced (counterclockwise) to align with distributor housing, or the next tooth (advanced counterclockwise direction) and rotate the rotor clockwise (retarded) to align.

It aligns either way, but only one... or neither is correct.
Which way is correct?

Does it need to be at a different engine degree rotation for proper distributor placement and rotor alignment? The under-hood sticker indicates timing at 30 degrees (non-adjustable).

Could the timing chain have possibly jumped or be off a tooth or more causing this odd aligment?
I'm not sure how I can confirm this somehow without taking the timing cover off.

The engine and carb had been previously rebuilt and could not get it running again due to the carb being out of adjustment, so it sat for some time. Now I am wanting to confirm the timing and eliminate the potential of timing as a reason why it didn't start again. I have other variable venturi carburetor related questions, but I will keep that separate and address that after this timing issue is resolved.

Most people have all been saying to give up on this car and either do an updated carb & ignition system swap, or sell the car as-is. Well, I don't just quit because something is hard, it's a challenge! Any positive assitance would be greatly appreciated!!

Edited by Chzyrider, 12 July 2011 - 03:18 PM.

[Chzyrider]

I got a couple photos of the distributor and rotor. This photo shows it set on the retarded of the two possible teeth and the rotor is then advanced to align. If setting distributor one tooth advanced, the rotor is turned (retarded) about the same amount to line up. #1 cyl cap ternimal is indicated by the '1' next to the arrow. The angled rotor tab is showing it located past the pick-up point at #2 inside the cap.


I imported this photo into an AutoCAD program to draw the lines and get approximate angle dimensions of where things sit. I made an improvised carboard 'alignment tool' to check for approx straightness of alignment. The book says to bring engine to TDC comp stroke and set distributor down in appropriate gear, then align rotor to slot and secure with screws. With the added AutoCAD lines, I find that the screws in the rotor, and therefore the distributor shaft is lined up directly where the #1 cap terminal would sit and is approx 15 degrees retarded from the alignment slot. The angled pickup tab on the rotor would be 45 degrees from the slotted tab aligned with the housing and this photo shows the angled tab being 15 degrees past the contact tab in the cap when at TDC.


I found on another forum to find the number of degrees a cam gear may be off is to divide 360 by the number of teeth on the cam gear.
360/42 = 8.57 degrees, X2 for 2:1 ratio = 17.14 degrees. This is close to the approx 15 degrees measured in the photo, and I may be 2 degrees off with one degree at the timing indicator and maybe one for chain stretch or rough alignment of drawing the lines.

Can anyone confirm the math?
I am now heavily suspecting the timing chain jumped a tooth in previous attempts to start it but it apparently ran very rough when it did.
I'm hoping for some confirmaiton before I tear it down to inspect the timing chain.

[Chzyrider]

Project on hold-

I have to stop and change directions for a bit and work on something perhaps a bit simpler; removing, rebuilding and reinstalling the 700R4 auto-trans in my son's S-10 Blazer 4x4. Now it's screaming 'fix me first'!

Meanwhile, some confirmation of this rotor position at TDC would be greatly appreciated. I cannot access the valve cover to confirm rocker arm movement due to the EGR cooler in the way secured with irreplaceable crimp-clamps securing the hard-pipes.

Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or product/preocedure for resecuring the slip-joints on these pipes?